Well I did my first wet plate work from chemistry I mixed by hand. IT WORKED! haha
:)
Loads of fun and it worked! The plates (first time I have used that
word) are washing now. I will try posting then in a day or two. Got to
do my first varnishing on them as well.
Here is what I did.
-I made small 4x5 tintypes using my Speed Graphic and 178mm f2.5 Aero
Ektar lens (tiny depth of field). Might try my Graflex next time and do a
portrait.
- Subject was a still life of a cross and rosy that
was part of my grand mothers funeral. The cross was on her coffin and
the rosary in her hand during the funeral ceremony.
- I worked with 2 collodions (got images on both). Quinn's Quick Clear and Poe Boy.
- I shot at night in using a Speedotron 4800 flash unit.
- I used 2 types of developer a normal Ferrous Sulfate and a Quinn's Vinegar version developer.
Most everything seemed to work. I had some exposure issues which I
mostly solved by adjusting the flash power. I had other problems of
course. Pouring mistakes, dropped a plate face down after the pour.
Have lots of weird marking stuff going on the plate as well, not 100%
sure what they are and why they are happening. But who cares! I am a
beginner and am a very happy with my first attempts! Years of learning
ahead of course and wet plate on glass Ambrotyes and glass Negatives is a
whole higher level. Going large also is a major step up, as is working
at different temperatures.
Bit by bit we are going to get this
done thou. After all, I have to rationalize the big trailer buy, the big
camera buy, the multiple big lens buys
:) And the 500 other buys!
The Poe Boy Collodion required one hell of a lot more exposure compared
to the Quinn Quick Clear collodion. With QQC I exposed at 4800 W with 2
flash heads and dialed back the Speedotron flash to -2. With the Poe
Boy I had to use full power and pop the flashes 3 times (that is a lot
more light, a LOT LOT more light).
Note* My thinking on the Poe
Boy Collodion and the Vinegar developer is to allow ease of use, cheaper
use, chemistry more easy to find use, later on when I go Ultra Large
Format and am making 35 inch ambrotypes and maybe making negatives on
glass.
Poe Boy does not use extra ether and does not uses cheaper
salts plus no Cadmium. If I can work out a working system for that type
Collodion I will be ahead of the game. No need to buy extra ether
(difficult) no need to use Cadmium Bromide (safer). The longer wet times
because of more alcohol might also help me when I am working with 35x35
plates, more time to get things done.
I want good plates with a
look I like. If I can achieve that by cutting Ether and Cadmium all the
better, if it does not work I will just use QQC Collodion and dump the
Poe Boy. It is worth a try, I am a newby what do I care! One of the fun
things about about this whole wet plate thingy, is you follow rules
others have taught you but you can also make some of your own!
The Vinegar developer is sort of the same idea. Not sure how practical
the formula is, but white vinegar is available in any grocery most
anywhere in Canada, Glacial Acetic Acid is not. So the thinking there is
I can get that ingredient as I need on the road anywhere in Canada, it
simplifies things. that is assuming I can get the developer to work. I
can be up in the Canadian North, in the middle of nowhere and go buy Vinegar for my developer. I
like that idea.
I will try to find the best working systems for
this KANATA project which will last 10-15 years (not started it yet).
SO FAR SO GOOD!
Update* I am happy, this all seems DO-ABLE now. It is very early but I believe, at least today I believe, that I will be able to chase down my KANATA wet plate dreams!! Look out Canada, here I come!
"Ain't Photography Grand!!"